What do the Soapcalc numbers really mean?
Aug 04, · According to industry reports, the average percentage of stearic acid in the favourite soap recipes of soap makers is round 7 percent. The two super high percentages of stearic acid completely bumped the average out of proportion; most recipes tend to clock in at 3 percent to 8 percent stearic acid. I use stearic acid at a rate of 1/8 to 1/4 ounce per pound of oils and I get a very nice hard bar of soap. I have also used beeswax at 1% but I think you can go as high as 2% Rating.
Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media How much stearic acid to add to soap media New comments Search media. Members Staff Registered members Current visitors. Log in Register.
Thread starter mikvahnrose Start date Sep 15, Help Support SoapMakingForum:. Joined Sep 14, Messages 91 Reaction score Because i made a recipe with it i think i used to much and it traced up almost instantly.
I am very confused by this. I want my soap to be harder but i think im going about this the wrong way. Um, this is a bad idea. Stearic acid will saponify instantly, accelerating your batch. Try adding a teaspoon of table salt per pound of oil to your water and dissolving it before you add your lye. You can also change your recipe to use more palm, lard, tallow or butters.
Soapmaker Well-Known Member. I've used it in recipes when I wanted to adjust ratios of various fatty acids. It works fine as long as you know what to expect. Stearic acid will react instantly and it will look like you have trace but it's false trace. The rest of the oils haven't had a chance to react yet.
You need to stir for a while longer until you are sure you reached stable trace. Since stearic acid forms soap, it helps emulsify the oils and lye and speeds up trace a little. Also, you need to work at a higher temperature to avoid stearic spots in the soap.
I like to add it to a mostly hazelnut soap that I make for a friend that takes forever and a day to trace. As far as hard soap, time cures all. They'll add the stearic acid to the soap batter and help harden soap better than anything else I tried. Does salt behave the same way the stearic acid would to make a harder bar of soap? What is recommended usage of stearic acid to ppo? But i hear that is too high? I do not like soft slimy bars of soap. This is what the soapcalc determined my recipe to be.
Well, you can make shaving soap, or use it to thicken lotions. I would not go over 35 - 40 percent palm, and I do not like more than 15 - 20 percent coconut. As for those numbers Salt does harden your bars, but not for the same reason stearic acid does. How long are you curing your bars? You might not be curing them long enough. What is your full recipe? How do you store your soap between uses? It needs to be in a soap dish that allows it to completely dry between uses, and no sit in any water what so ever.
Susie Supporting Member. IrishLass Staff member. You may want to consider HPing with it instead. I have been using brambleberry and started out using measurement in oz rather than percentages. I don't even know how to measure a master batch of lye to use for everything or consider water discount. That is probably easier than i am making it out to be This is my first time i am doing percentages.
I just went to look at the new BB calculator. I really do not like it. So that could be why your soap is soft. Again, your recipe would really help us figure out what's going on. There are many posts on the forum that explain why this is not the best way to go.
I would strongly suggest reading the thread on soapcalc, and following the tutorial also in the forum on how to use it. Joined Jan 14, Messages 3, Reaction score 3, Obsidian Well-Known Member. How long are you curing it before use and does it get a chance to completely dry between uses?
No matter the recipe, if handmade soap can't dry thoroughly, it will get soft. The hardness of 48 is a totally new recipe and i wanted to try out something with stearic acid to harden the soap. I usually cure it for 5 weeks. O Before i had the Coconut: 25 Palm: 25 Olive But it ended up making the bar not the way i like it. Idk i'm just playing around and finding what i like. I LOVE bubbles. I need my bubbles.
To me bubbles is king haha. So i want to do whatever to get my bubbles. Sounds childish yes The Efficacious Gentleman Lifetime Supporter. This will boos the bubbles a great deal, but it will also make the soap hotter as it saponifies so if you usually insulate your soap you will need less - exactly how much will be some trial and error. Susie is another bubble-lover and she uses lower coconut with no issues at all.
I have to have my bubbles! I subtract 1 oz of water from the total amount the recipe calls for, and use that as hot water to dissolve that sugar.
I add that sugar water to the oils before the lye water. In this recipe, the tallow tends to give big bubbles and hardness, where the lard gives dense, creamy lather. It is the best of both worlds lather wise. I add the sugar or honey for more bubbles and the castor oil to help those bubbles stay around longer.
With 1tsp ppo of sugar added, after a 3 month cure, this makes a very hard bar with enough bubbles to keep my 2 and 4 year olds happy. IrishLass said:. Susie is not the only bubble-lover around here. I gotta have my bubbles, too- as do my hubby and how to make a fiberglass subwoofer enclosure they're bubble-lovers as well.
Most but not all around here consider those percentages pretty high, but they are what work for me. We have very hard water, you see which diminishes bubbly latherand so all these things help tremendously to combat that. Honey will heat it up for me, but not regular table sugar. BrewerGeorge Well-Known Member. I use the same amount of sugar as IL with no overheating problems, but Honey heats up with considerably with less used, 2 tbs in my 60 oz oils and it heats up.
Last edited: Sep 16, FNG Member. Joined Sep 12, Messages 20 Reaction score As others have mentioned, there are a multitude of other ways to get a harder bar aside from using SA. However, if you do choose to use How to make a frog cake topper in any amount, I have found it easier to work with in CP and HP settings by following a few recommendations: 1 Don't skimp on the water or water replacement in your lye solution as the extra fluidity helps you mix the SA in.
It has how much stearic acid to add to soap how hard is it to get into georgetown point of You must log in or register to reply here. Latest posts.
Why do I like to add tallow to soap?
Dec 14, · That sounds like a very small amount, but a little goes a long way when it comes to stearic acid! Keep in mind if you use stearic acid in your recipe, it will trace faster and needs a hotter soaping temperature (at least ° F) to make sure it stays melted. Use Sodium Lactate/Salt Sodium lactate is the liquid salt of lactic acid. It’s generally added to cooled lye water at a rate of 1 teaspoon . Sep 16, · Stearic acid can be quite tricky to use in CP, but it can be done if you keep the % of stearic on the low side and soap on the hotter side, as Soapmaker pointed out. I used it @ 3% ppo once in a CP batch, but I much prefer using cocoa butter or mango butter in my formulas to increase hardness in my soap instead, because they bring with them other nice qualities to my soap that . Aug 07, · Stearic acid melts at °C (°F) (that’s a higher melting point than beeswax!), making it a very effective hardening ingredient that raises the melting points of our products without adding any waxiness. It can be sourced from animal or plant sources, or synthesized, so if the origins of your ingredients are important to you, be sure to ask your supplier.
Cold process soap is very different compared to soap made from surfactants. Cold process soap is made with natural oils and produces lather naturally. Lather from most store bought soaps come from surfactants or detergents.
Synthetic surfactants are harsher on the skin, and can strip the skin of moisture. While cold process soap has many skin benefits, one downside is that cold process soap does not last as long in the shower as soap made from surfactants and detergents.
My number one tip is to make sure the soap sits in a soap dish, or shower rack. If the soap sits in water for too long, it will become mushy and soft very quickly. Use More Hard Oils In general, firmer bars of soap last longer in the shower.
Using more hard oils helps create a firmer bar of soap. Hard oils refer to oils that are solid at room temperature such as palm oil , coconut oil , beeswax and palm kernel flakes.
That sounds like a very small amount, but a little goes a long way when it comes to stearic acid! It does wonders for hardening up your bar, and really helps extend the life in the shower. I use it in just about every one of my batches! Learn more about sodium lactate here. In the Palm Free Vertical Twist recipe, we used about 1 tsp. Sodium lactate or table salt is especially great when the recipe tends to be a little softer like a palm free recipe.
Sodium lactate creates a bar that is firmer, can be unmolded faster, and also lasts longer in the shower. Soap on the left contains sodium lactate, while soap on the right does not. Use a Draining Soap Dish When a cured bar of soap sits in water, it turns to mush pretty quickly.
The best solution to avoid the soap from coming in contact with excess is water is to place it on a soap dish. The dish should elevate the soap and allow the water to drain. In the shower, placing the soap on a shower rack works as well. The key is to keep the soap dry. Without a dish, a fully cured bar of cold process soap will turn soft and mushy in about a day. I received this beautiful bar from Tabitha in the Fall Soap Swap.
I loved that Tabitha included a dish along with her soap. So clever! Make Sure to Fully Cure Making cold process soap takes patience. It needs time to sit in the mold to harden, which usually takes at least days. Once unmolded and cut, the bars need to cure for about weeks. During this time, excess water in the soap evaporates, which creates a firmer and longer lasting bar. The longer the bar cures, the better. This is especially true for soap made with mostly or all olive oil, also known as Castile soap.
Castile soap benefits from a longer curing time of abut six months to a full year. If you water discount your recipe, the soap may not need to cure quite as long. Do you have any recipe tricks for making your cold process soap last longer in the shower?
While little changes like more hard oils and stearic acid make a difference, a soap dish is really key! Tutorials by difficulty level: Beginner Intermediate Advanced.