Quick Fix for Rips in Vinyl Boat Seats - Suggestions ?
Nov 09, · Repairing nasty leather or vinyl seating. See How we Paint Silicone nicefreedatingall.com This works for leather or vinyl. This repair will last you Author: Sweet Project Cars. Aug 24, · If it's not cleaned off before you even start on the seats the sticky mess gets on everything it touches. Get a large curved needle and some upholstery size thread and pull the rips and tears back together by hand stitching then seal the seam with some vinyl repair glue.
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Thread starter kevinstan Start date Aug 22, Joined Ripper 19, Messages I hiw a bowrider with vinyl seats. Its in overall good condition and vinnyl motor is excellent after having everything worked on. Only problem now is that I have some rips and tears in the vinyl seat. Since I am not really looking to restore fkx boat or to re-upholster the seats, I was wanting a quick fix to get through the summer with it. I placed duct tape over what did tudors eat for dessert rips so they didn't get any worse and would cover up the opening to the foam underneath.
Problem is that in this hot Georgia heat, the duct tape is melting and getting sticky and sliding off the vinyl seats. I am not looking to spend a lot of money to restore - just a quick cheap fix to make it look ok and get through the season. Any tips or help is greatly appreciated. Joined May 17, Messages 6, To fix a rip in the part of the seat that takes the load the easiest way would be to take some of the staples out and glue a patch from the backside of the vinyl and then use a vinyl repair kit to seal up the outside.
Joined Jun 26, Messages what are red bumps on scalp, Good suggestion by Oldjeep. If that doesn't work, I say make the time to either reupholster OR put some stretch to fit cover over them. If you don't do something with them now, you will be doing a lot more down the road.
They will deteriorate pretty quickly with the weather getting inside. And I as well live in middle Georgia and it is amazing how hot it is this summer. I can't get much done myself.
Oshkosh1 Ensign. Joined Jun 8, Messages Clear Gorilla tape Using gorilla tape now - in silver since the seats are grey - and that's what is fixx from the heat I don't want to have to take staples out and redo the seats either Was hoping there was a stronger tape, or large vinyl patches with glue ginyl somewhere Scott Danforth Grumpy old guy who plays with boats.
Joined Jul 23, Messages 34, Joined May 8, Messages 1, Or just toss a towel over the seat. Could use some artificial intimation genuine Naugahyde with some staples.
Joined Apr 18, Messages 1, Rippec have how to cut top off beer bottle this JerryLX Seaman Apprentice. Joined Jul 20, Messages You have already done the worst thing possible by putting vinnyl on the seats.
It always leads to a big sticky mess. You will need something like lacquer sets to get the mess off and it's not going to be good for the vinyl at all. I charge people a few bucks extra labor to upholster seats that come in with tape on them because of the mess.
If it's not cleaned off before you even start on ro seats the sticky mess gets on everything it touches. Get a large curved needle and some upholstery size thread and pull the rips and tears back together by hand stitching then seal the seam with some vinyl repair glue.
Captaincrisp Petty Officer 2nd Class. Joined May 28, Messages More tape!!!! Quickly before it opens and the pixes get out!!! You must log in or register to reply here.
Rips That Are Not on a Seam
Howard has been an online writer for several years. His articles often focus on the care and restoration of older cars.
These two rips will just get worse if they are not repaired. The rest of the upholstery is in good shape, although the leather is hardened from sun exposure. Howard S. The average hobbyist can do a passable DIY seat repair. Forget ugly duct tape or drawstring seat covers! I vary my repair techniques depending on the nature of the damage. A professional can restore seemingly hopeless leather.
Note that this article does not directly address accidental damage due to misuse, such as knife cuts or cigarette burns; however, similar methods do apply. Nor does it cover repair of porous cloth or velour fabric seating—only leather, vinyl or cloth-backed vinyl.
At that point, most owners will either just ignore the damage or try some easy fix, which is usually ineffective. Moreover, once a rip begins, it will continue to tear if not stopped, and any underlying foam padding that is exposed to sunlight will rapidly deteriorate.
When the seat fabric splits where it is not right up against a seam, we have access to the back on both sides of the rip. For this kind of damage, I glue a piece of fabric to the back of the rip and hold the gap closed while the glue dries. There will be layers of padding and perhaps other cloth under the ripped surface material. It is important to use a suitable patch fabric. I find that a scrap of suede or heavy-duty duck cloth used for uniforms works well.
The critical factor for woven cloth is that it not stretch on the warp and woof all weaves will stretch some on the diagonal. If the color happens to be a close match, it may make things easier. There is a small hole below the patch. The gray bolster from this Supra bucket seat shows what it looks like with the fabric tucked in, before gluing.
I try to orient the fabric so that the warp or woof is aligned with the direction of stress. The shirt stay is pointing to the patch, which is nearly invisible now because of the close color match. Next, we need to use weights or clamps to apply direct pressure to the surface in order to press the leather and glued backing together. This is not easy, so I work it out before applying the glue. The surface is always curved, so you need to press hard enough to flatten the curve or use a curved pressure plate.
Take care that your pressure clamps are not widening the gap. If possible, apply clamps to narrow the gap simultaneously. I did not do that for the Lexus because the tan leather had spread apart from drying out and shrinking in the sun. This 2 lb. The masking tape simply keeps it from falling off.
Don't use duct tape, which could peel off the top coat! Finished repair is good enough to prevent further damage to seats that are well worn. There are many suitable adhesives, but the one I prefer is plain old school glue. When the adhesive is completely dried, release the pressure and admire your progress. The gray Supra repair is finished at this stage. For the damaged Lexus seat shown here tan , the rips were so long that I chose to patch each end of the rips separately. I cut two strips of cloth and overlapped them in the middle as I glued them in, tucking glue under each edge with the shirt stay.
The patch should really be about twice as wide as in this example. The Lexus leather is quite thick, so the repair needs a filler to bring it up flush with the seat surface. Various fillers will work. The main requirements are that it be flexible, non-shrinking and can be colored in some way. In this particular instance, I used ordinary cheap caulking compound. It was easy to shape, and any excess cleaned up with water.
I had planned to use a professional product, but discovered at the last minute that mine had dried out. It will usually be necessary to color the repaired area to get it to match the seat color.
Various companies sell kits which enable you to mix colors for vinyl and leather repairs. Getting a close match is difficult though, as you can see by the tan Lexus example here.
The colored medium is often of the heat-cure type. The technique is much like ironing. The challenge, of course, is to heat the patch enough to cure it without overheating the surrounding seat material. There are companies that sell pre-mixed bottles containing an exact match to your car's seat color.
See the last paragraph of this article for ordering information. In this case, the solution is to patch over the top using a remnant of the same leather or vinyl used on the seats. All seats have some excess material that is hidden from view beyond where it attaches to the seat frame.
To access this requires removing a seat or some part of it. The white tool is flipping up the edge of the leather so we can see both sides of it and the edge.
See how thick it is? If you have a choice, the cloth-backed vinyl is preferable because it is thinner. When I removed the gray bolster from the Supra, I found a nice big piece of vinyl, although I never found where this had actually been used on visible surfaces. Note the contrast between the thickness of the vinyl 0.
This seat is in a classic car that is still all original, although it shows obvious signs of wear and patina. The owner wants to keep it original rather than restoring it. I did not think of photographing this area before starting.
Suffice it to say that the damaged area was nearly as long as the patch. It was not nearly that wide, though heavily worn. Since I was patching anyway, I made it as wide as the scrap material permitted, thus reinforcing the weakened area that tends to take the most wear on this type of seat. If exposed open-cell foam may come in contact with glue from the patch, I insert a thin non-porous sheet—plastic, wax paper, etc.
If glue is permitted to saturate the foam and harden, it will ruin the sponginess and stiffen it. Ensure that your pressure plate—the surface that will directly contact the patch and any glue that squeezes out around it—is less porous than the seat surface.
Otherwise, when you release the pressure, bits of the seat fabric may separate and adhere to the clamp. When I use a wood block, I wrap it with plastic cling wrap from the kitchen in order to release from the glue. Since I use a water-soluble glue, I can clean up any residue with a moist rag. Positioning a patch that has to edge snugly up against a seam can be difficult because it will tend to slide around once glue is applied and because the pressure plate generally obscures vision.
I practice aligning it a few times before applying the glue. Kits are available with everything necessary to do the job. Typical contents include subfabric, adhesive and primary colors for mixing. Kits with a heat-transfer tool work better on vinyl and include a few leather-grain transfer papers. Those that do not require heat work better on leather. The toughest part of most basic kits is trying to mix the colors for a good match. Unfortunately, you get what you pay for.
They stock hundreds of pre-mixed colors to match almost any production automobile seat. That may well be worth the cost in order to avoid the aggravation of trying to mix and match the seat leather from basic colors. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Do you have suggestions for the leather seats that have the little holes for cooling? The tear is not in the seam. I am sure hoping you can help me with some ideas for my leather seats in my car front and back seats also damaged my color gray leather with there blue soap ugggghhhh!!!! Recently experienced a leak in my sun roof and mold grew and I am battling the tears from inexperienced detail guys.
Never repair a seat, but I really need to with materials around home because repair kits here a expensive. Glue won't stick to vinyl. Some patch kits use a heat tool, similar to soldering. I haven't tried that kind, but that's what this calls for. The cat has torn the vinyl of my husband's exercise bench. The vinyl is black. Would it be easier to match the black color? The cat just got her claw in and then drew it out. So, I can't patch. I wonder if I can glue with Elmer's glue and match the black color.